IN · Uttar Pradesh · 25.32°N 83.01°E

varanasi

Dawn boats on the Ganges, riverside rituals and kachori breakfasts in tiny lanes.

Best time
November–February is the most comfortable time, though winter mornings are often foggy. May–June is very hot, and in July–August the river can cover the lower steps and halt boat trips.
How long
2–3 days
Getting there
No direct flights from KL. Fly with one stop, usually via Delhi, about 9–11 hours all in. The airport is about an hour from the old city. India is 2.5 hours behind KL.
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IN · Uttar Pradeshvaranasi25.32°N 83.01°Egowherelah.com
Dear group chat,Dawn boats on the Ganges, riverside rituals and kachori breakfasts in tiny lanes.— gowherelahTo: whoever’s drivingVaranasiIN, Uttar Pradesh
KLvaranasi
≈ 3,174 km from KL, as the crow flies
Varanasi - dawn on the riverside

Photo: Patrick Barry · CC BY-SA 2.0

1 / 3

Photos: Wikimedia Commons, credited on each.

Varanasi's old city tumbles down narrow lanes to the stone ghats along the Ganges. Dawn boats, evening prayers, cremations, laundry and morning baths all share the same riverfront.

Makan

  1. Kachori sabziPuffy fried bread stuffed with lentils, with a spicy potato curry: the Varanasi breakfast.Map ↗
  2. Tamatar chaatMashed, spiced tomato and potato topped with crunchy sev, served in a leaf bowl.Map ↗
  3. MalaiyoA saffron milk froth, said to be set by the winter dew, sold only on cold-season mornings.Map ↗

Things to do

  1. Dawn boat on the GangesA rowing boat at first light, drifting past the ghats as the city bathes and prays.Map ↗
  2. Dashashwamedh GhatThe nightly Ganga aarti, with priests swinging brass lamps to bells and chanting. Come early for a spot, or watch from a boat.Map ↗
  3. Assi GhatThe southern end of the ghats, with its own morning aarti and room to sit by the river.Map ↗
  4. The old city lanesNarrow galis behind the ghats, full of sweet shops, silk weavers and tiny shrines.Map ↗
  5. SarnathWhere the Buddha gave his first sermon, with a great brick stupa and a museum, half an hour out of town.Map ↗

Good to know

  • Boat fares and routes are agreed before you get in; an hour is enough to see the main ghats.
  • Cremations at Manikarnika aren't for photographing; watch quietly from a distance or from a boat.
  • Halal meat is easiest in Muslim neighbourhoods such as Madanpura; the lanes by the ghats are mostly vegetarian.

Last checked October 2026. Things change, so check opening times, fees and transport before you go.