MY · Melaka · 2.17°N 102.33°E

umbai

Grilled stingray with sambal at the seafront stalls south-east of Melaka city.

Best time
Any time of year. Come for an early dinner around sunset, before the weekend crowd takes the tables by the water. The stalls are covered, so a shower won't spoil it.
How long
An evening
Getting there
About 2 hours' drive from KL via the Ayer Keroh exit of the North–South Expressway. From Melaka's old town it's about 20 minutes down the coast road towards Merlimau and Muar.
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MY · Melakaumbai2.17°N 102.33°Egowherelah.com
Dear group chat,Grilled stingray with sambal at the seafront stalls south-east of Melaka city.— gowherelahTo: whoever’s drivingUmbaiMY, Melaka
KLumbai
≈ 129 km from KL, as the crow flies

Umbai is a fishing village on the coast road south-east of Melaka city, and it's where Melaka people take visitors for ikan bakar. There are two seafood courts by the water, and the grills get going as the sun goes down.

Makan

  1. Ikan pari bakarStingray grilled on banana leaf under a thick layer of sambal. Almost every table orders it.Map ↗
  2. Kerang and sotongGrilled cockles and squid on the side, or sotong goreng tepung for the kids.Map ↗
  3. Air asamThe sour chilli and tamarind dip that comes with the fish. Ask for more.Map ↗

Things to do

  1. Medan Ikan Bakar UmbaiThe original seafood court at Pengkalan Pernu, a row of stalls right on the shore. Pick your fish off the ice and say how you want it done.Map ↗
  2. The floating seafood villageThe newer complex at Umbai Baru stands on stilts over the sea, with two floors of stalls, a boardwalk and a lookout tower. Best for sunset.Map ↗
  3. Makam Sultan AliSultan Ali of Johor spent his last years in Umbai and was buried here in 1877. His grave is painted royal yellow.Map ↗

Good to know

  • The old court and the floating village are separate places a short drive apart, so pick one before you set the GPS.
  • Fish and prawns are sold by weight. Ask what yours comes to before it goes on the grill.
  • Pulau Besar's boats leave from the Anjung Batu jetty just down the road, if you want to make a day of it.

Last checked October 2026. Things change, so check opening times, fees and transport before you go.