MY · Penang · 5.17°N 100.48°E
nibong tebal
Udang galah, Teochew seafood porridge and fireflies along the Kerian River.
- Best time
- Any time of year. Fireflies show up best on dark nights with little moonlight, and heavy rain spoils the trip.
- How long
- Half a day, into the evening
- Getting there
- About 3.5 hours' drive from KL on the North–South Expressway; leave at Jawi. From George Town, allow about 45 minutes via the second bridge.
nibong tebal
Dear group chat,— gowherelahTo: whoever’s drivingNibong TebalMY, Penang
Photo: Vnonymous · CC BY-SA 4.0 Photo: Unknown authorUnknown author · Public domain Photo: CK Tan · CC BY 3.0
Photos: Wikimedia Commons, credited on each.
Penang's southernmost town sits on the Kerian River, which marks the border with Perak. It's an old district town of pre-war shophouses and iron bridges with a serious seafood habit, and after dark, boats head downriver to see fireflies in the mangroves.
Makan
- Udang galahGiant freshwater prawns, best in a rich curry with bread to mop up the gravy.Map ↗
- Teochew seafood porridgeA pot of porridge loaded with fish and prawns, with steamed crab or sour plum clams on the side.Map ↗
- CrabCurry crab in town, or steamed flower crab at the seafood places in Sungai Udang.Map ↗
Things to do
- Kerian River firefliesSmall boats head into the mangroves after dark, where fireflies blink in the berembang trees along the bank. Book ahead.Map ↗
- Kampung Sungai UdangThe fishing village near the river mouth, where boats bring in the catch late in the morning.Map ↗
- The old townPre-war shophouses, St Anthony's Church and the old iron and railway bridges over the Kerian.Map ↗
- Sungai BakapChai kueh and Teochew dim sum, about 15 minutes north.Map ↗
Good to know
- Popular places run out of udang galah at weekends, so go early or book.
- The well-known seafood and porridge places are Chinese and mostly not halal.
- Bring insect repellent for the firefly boat, and keep your phone flash off.
Last checked October 2026. Things change, so check opening times, fees and transport before you go.