melaka in 2 days, 1 night

Chicken rice balls, a Peranakan townhouse and the river at dusk on the first day, with Jonker Walk after dark. The old Dutch and Portuguese sights come first thing the next morning, before the heat and the drive home.

1. Day 1

   Jonker Street and the river

   Morning

   Drive down from KL, about 2 hours, or take a bus from TBS. Leave early at weekends, check in near Jonker Street or the river, and leave the car at the hotel.

   Lunch

   Chicken rice balls at one of the shops around Jonker Street. Expect a queue at weekends.

   Afternoon

   Spend the hottest part of the day at the Baba & Nyonya Heritage Museum, a preserved Peranakan townhouse a few minutes' walk from Jonker Street. Cool down afterwards with cendol and plenty of gula Melaka.

   Evening

   Take the Melaka River cruise at dusk, past the murals and old warehouses along the water.

   Night

   Graze your way through the Jonker Walk night market for dinner. On a weeknight, when the market isn't on, have satay celup instead.

2. Day 2

   Red Square and St Paul's Hill

   Morning

   Walk to the Red Square early, before the heat and the tour buses, for the Stadthuys and Christ Church. Climb St Paul's Hill behind them to the ruined church, then come down the other side to A Famosa.

   Lunch

   A Nyonya lunch of ayam pongteh and Nyonya laksa at one of the Peranakan restaurants in the old town. Or have asam pedas if you want something sour and spicy.

   Afternoon

   Drive home, about 2 hours. On a Sunday, leave by early afternoon, before the traffic back to KL builds up.