hanoi in 5 days, 4 nights

The Old Quarter and its street food, a day around Hoan Kiem Lake and the Temple of Literature, and a night on a Ha Long Bay cruise, before a last bowl of phở and the flight home.

  1. Day 1

    Into the Old Quarter

    Morning
    Fly from KL, about 3 hours 20 minutes; Hanoi is an hour behind Malaysia. From Noi Bai Airport it's about 45 minutes by Grab or taxi to the Old Quarter.
    Lunch
    Bún chả, grilled pork with rice noodles and herbs, at a small shop in the Old Quarter.
    Afternoon
    Check in, then have an egg coffee. Café Giảng, said to be where it began, is a short walk from Hoan Kiem Lake.
    Evening
    Walk the Old Quarter at dusk as the shopfronts light up, and eat dinner on a plastic stool at whichever stall is busiest.
  2. Day 2

    Lake, temple and puppets

    Morning
    Walk round Hoan Kiem Lake early, when locals are out exercising, then have phở for breakfast. Take a 10-minute Grab to the Temple of Literature, Vietnam's first university, before it gets busy.
    Lunch
    Back in the Old Quarter for chả cá, turmeric fish fried with dill at your table. Chả Cá Street is named after the dish.
    Afternoon
    Rest, or wander the Old Quarter's streets, many still named for the goods once sold on them.
    Evening
    A water puppet show at the Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre, on the edge of Hoan Kiem Lake.
  3. Day 3

    Ha Long Bay

    Morning
    Your cruise picks you up for the drive to Ha Long Bay, about 2.5 hours.
    Lunch
    Lunch on board as the boat heads out among the limestone islands.
    Afternoon
    Kayaking, a cave visit or a swim, depending on the boat and the weather.
    Evening
    Dinner on board and a quiet night on the bay.
  4. Day 4

    Back to Hanoi

    Morning
    Watch the morning light on the islands from the deck, then brunch as the boat heads back to the harbour.
    Afternoon
    Drive back to Hanoi, about 2.5 hours, and check back in.
    Evening
    A last night in the Old Quarter: more bún chả, or the stall you've walked past twice and wanted to try.
  5. Day 5

    Phở and home

    Morning
    One more bowl of phở and a last walk by the lake.
    Lunch
    An early lunch near the hotel.
    Afternoon
    Head to Noi Bai Airport, about 45 minutes, and fly home.

Good to know

  • Book a Ha Long cruise that includes the transfer from the Old Quarter, and leave your big bags at your Hanoi hotel.
  • To cross the road, walk at a steady pace and let the motorbikes flow around you.
  • Evenings from December to February are cool, especially out on the bay, so pack a jacket.
The Hanoi guide