fukuoka in 3 days, 2 nights

Ramen, Kushida Shrine and the riverside yatai on arrival, a morning at Dazaifu and an afternoon in Ohori Park, and mentaiko shopping before the short ride to the airport.

  1. Day 1

    Hakata and the yatai

    Morning
    Fly from KL, about 6 hours; Japan is an hour ahead of Malaysia. The airport is about 15 minutes from Hakata by subway.
    Lunch
    Hakata tonkotsu ramen. Order a kaedama, a noodle refill, when you're done.
    Afternoon
    Check in, then walk to Kushida Shrine, Hakata's old guardian shrine, and on to Canal City Hakata close by.
    Evening
    Yatai by the river in Nakasu. Grab a stool early and order oden, grilled skewers or more ramen.
  2. Day 2

    Dazaifu and Ohori Park

    Morning
    Take the Nishitetsu train from Tenjin to Dazaifu, about 30–40 minutes with one change, for Dazaifu Tenmangu, the big shrine to the god of learning.
    Lunch
    Snack your way along the shrine's approach street. Umegae mochi, grilled rice cakes filled with red bean, are the famous one.
    Afternoon
    Back in the city, walk the loop round Ohori Park, then climb up to the Fukuoka Castle ruins next door.
    Evening
    Mizutaki, chicken simmered in a milky broth, or motsunabe, a hotpot of beef offal, cabbage and garlic chives.
  3. Day 3

    Mentaiko and home

    Morning
    Shop for mentaiko, spicy pollock roe, around Hakata Station, where plenty of shops sell it in gift boxes.
    Lunch
    One last bowl of ramen.
    Afternoon
    Subway to the airport and fly home.

Good to know

  • Tonkotsu broth is made from pork. Look for halal or Muslim-friendly ramen shops if you need them.
  • Yatai are small. Carry cash, and don't linger if people are waiting for your stool.
  • An IC card such as Suica works on the subway and the Nishitetsu train to Dazaifu.
The Fukuoka guide